Rajasthan is India at its most operatic. Jaipur gives you the Hawa Mahal and Amber Fort; Udaipur arranges itself around lakes with palaces floating in them; Jodhpur is an indigo city under the vast Mehrangarh; Jaisalmer is a living fort in the Thar desert where families still occupy houses inside the walls. Distances are long and the light is extraordinary — plan fewer stops and stay longer in each.